Care for your jewelry
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» Silver
» Silver - Storage and cleaning
» Silver - Slighly less useful but nethertheless interesting information
» Gold
» Gold - Storage and cleaning
» Gold - Slighly less useful but nethertheless interesting information
» Gold-Filled Jewelry
» Additional Information and care
Sterling Silver - Storage and Cleaning
Unfortunately, everything changes with time, use and wear. Your sterling silver or beaded gemstone jewelry is no different. Here are general suggestions for long term care and prolonging the life of your jewelry:
Keep It clean. It is much easier to remove tarnish and dirt when it is kept to a minimum. If you allow your jewelry to darken severely, it may damage the metal. The longer you go between cleanings, the harder it will be to restore it to its original luster. So, keep it clean!
Use a soft 100% cotton polishing cloth or flannel and rub off any dirt (makeup, oils, etc.). You can use a special sterling silver cleaning cloth or even a very soft bristle brush such as a baby’s toothbrush, mushroom brush, or a horsehair silver brush. Paper, polyester, and coarse fabric often contain particles, synthetic fibers, or even wood fibers that can cause scratches in the surface of your jewelry. Dirt remaining on the surface can cause scratches if not removed.
To remove light dirt, fingerprints, makeup, etc., just use a small amount of mild liquid detergent to a ½ cup of water and rinse thoroughly with clean, cool water. Be aware that harsh cleansers can damage the polish on your gemstones. Dry your jewelry completely before storage. You can occasionally polish it up with a soft cotton cloth or an old t-shirt. Do not use a silver polishing cloth on your gemstones!
The best use of these cloths is to remove light scratches due to wear and tear. If the tarnishing is progressed and you have need for a deeper cleaning, use a silver paste cleaner or a silver polish spray (a sterling silver flatware dip is great) for items without gemstones. For items with gemstones, it is necessary to use a more delicate cleaner. Be aware that silver paste cleaners can damage gemstones such as turquoise and pearls, so be sure to avoid contact with your gemstones when cleaning with these agents.
To use a paste cleaner, simply apply the wash or paste with a soft sponge or directly with your finger and wash as you would something fragile. Using a circular motion, work the paste into a foam. When the tarnish is removed, rinse in clean, cool water. If it has gemstones, you will need to limit your cleaning to specific, affected areas and follow with an overall cleaning using a delicate jewelry cleaner. Dry with a soft cotton cloth.
To use a spray cleaner, use a soft bristle brush and a mild soap (like Dove). Clean well and then apply the spray polish. Let it dry for a couple of minutes, then rub off with a soft cotton cloth. If there are gemstones, especially turquoise or pearl, apply the cleaner to a cloth and rub the area around the gemstone. Avoid spraying cleaner on the gemstones. Dry and polish with a soft cotton cloth. |
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To clean matte finish silver jewelry, use baking soda or toothpaste. Barely moisten your sterling silver jewelry with water. Place in the palm of your hand and pour a liberal amount of baking soda or toothpaste on your jewelry and rub gently with your fingertips or a soft bristle brush. Continue doing this until you remove all tarnish. Rinse with clean, cool water and dry with a soft cotton cloth.
You can leave tarnish in the deeper crevices (harder to clean areas) of your jewelry. This may enhance the look of your piece by adding definition or “antiquing” to its look. Some pieces are oxidized by the jeweler with this intent in mind. However, if you want to remove tarnish from all areas, you may use the soft bristle brushes mentioned earlier in this section.
And the best method of all…wear it and let it shine. Your piece will age and grow with you, acquiring a soft sheen prized by many.
Always remove your jewelry before using any product that contains bleach, ammonia, alcohol, fingernail polish removers (acetone), and turpentine. Some of these can cause a breakdown in the metal alloys leaving your jewelry dull, pitted and possibly beyond repair. It can even mar the surfaces of gemstones.
Clean before storing and store in the proper manner. Tarnish is a normal condition that is caused by oxidation, humidity and sunshine (believe it or not!). Leaving your sterling silver jewelry exposed to open air and humidity will accelerate the tarnishing process. Avoid storing your sterling silver jewelry directly on wood surfaces. Wood usually contains acids that can affect the finish. Do not place in a cardboard box or on paper as they have sulfur compounds present that might increase the rate of oxidation. Avoid mixing your jewelry with other objects in storage. Some items, such as pennies or rubber can tarnish or damage your pieces. So, to reduce tarnish and keep it at bay for months at a time, use an air-tight bag made of tarnish-proof cloth or a plastic bag made of mylar (turkey cooking bags) or polyethylene. Be warned that some plastic contains sulfur compounds which can increase the rate of oxidation. Do not use polyvinyl bags. Zip-lock bags make excellent storage bags!
Check for loose stones or parts and have them repaired right away so as not to snag the item and lose anything of value. With normal wear and tear, stones may loosen over time. If a stone rocks in its bezel setting, you can first try to tighten the bezel around the stone yourself to prevent loss. You can usually tighten this yourself if you use special care. The back of a wooden spoon works well: run it along the bezel to press it down on the gemstone and tighten. You may also consult a local jeweler for a minimally priced repair.
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Sterling Silver - Useful Information
Did you know that if you wear your sterling silver jewelry regularly, your body oils will help keep tarnishing to a minimum? So in addition to proper storage and cleaning, the best care for your sterling silver jewelry is to wear it!
Did you know what the number “925” represents when you see it stamped on your sterling silver? The number, 925, is the millesimal fineness. The minimum millesimal fineness is 925. This number denotes the purity of platinum, gold and silver alloys by parts per thousand of pure metal in the alloy. Sterling silver is an alloy of silver containing 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper. These other metals are used for added strength because fine silver (99.9% pure) is generally too soft for some items. Other metals have replaced copper recently for varying reasons claiming reduced porosity, firescale and tarnish. However, copper remains the most common, with none of these alloy options emerging as an industry leader or standard.
Did you know the origin of the term “sterling silver”? In reference to the .925 grade of silver, the term “sterling silver” had emerged in England by the 13th century. “Sterling” and “pound sterling” seem to have acquired their meaning over time, and from several sources. The first mention is that of “sterilensis” in 1078. By the 13th century the term “sterling” had appeared. “Sterling” is believed to come from the Old Norman French esterlin (little star) and Old English stiere (strong, firm, immovable).
Did you know that although silver is relatively scarce, it is the most plentiful and least expensive of the precious metals? The largest silver producing countries are Mexico, Peru, the United States, Australia and Chile. Sources of silver include; silver mined directly, silver mined as a by-product of gold, copper, lead and zinc mining, and silver extracted from recycled materials, primarily used photographic materials. Today, silver bullion stocks make up a significant component of silver supply.
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Gold: Storage and Cleaning
Gold, as noted by Aristotle, won’t rot, break, crumble, decay, corrode or tarnish. Gold is unaffected by air, water, and even most acids. Gold is lasting and durable, but can still get scratched or dented if treated roughly. A little time and effort will keep your gold jewelry looking new from the day you purchase it. Here are general suggestions for long term care and prolonging the life of your jewelry:
Make sure that all jewelry is removed during rough work or when handling harsh chemicals. Gold’s worst enemy is chlorine, so remember to remove your jewelry before entering a swimming pool or hot tub.
It is generally better to clean your gold jewelry with warm water, mild soap (not detergent), and a soft toothbrush. Rinse under warm running water and pat dry with a soft, cotton, lint-free cloth. Gold-filled jewelry is different in the fact that it is bonded with another metal (usually silver). Pure gold will not tarnish, but the silver, if it is the base metal, will tarnish like any sterling silver jewelry will tarnish. See below for more information regarding gold-filled jewelry. |
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Store your jewelry in a fabric-lined box separate from other pieces in order to prevent denting and scratching from tumbling and tangling.
Periodically inspect your jewelry for weakness or damage and take it to a professional jeweler for proper repair if you notice any deterioration. With normal wear and tear, stones and clasps may loosen over time.
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Gold: Gold - Did you know...?
Did you know that gold is one of the world’s most precious metals and is the oldest known to mankind? Gold has a long and complex history. From gold’s first discovery, it has symbolized wealth and guaranteed power. Gold has caused obsession in men and nations, destroyed some cultures and given power to others. It has been the symbol of kings and the treasure of nations. Being desired by all but possessed by few, gold has been cherished for all of recorded history. It has been a medium of exchange for centuries. Due to its magnificent properties and wonderful luster, it is considered to be the most important metal in jewelry making.
Did you know the meaning of the term “karat”? The purity of gold has long been measured in Karats, but is now also measured in terms of fineness. The millesimal fineness is a system denoting the purity of platinum, gold and silver alloys by parts per thousand of pure metal in the alloy. The process of understanding the Karat system becomes rather simple when gold is thought of as an alloy (a mixture of various metals). The karat defines the percentage of pure gold in the alloy. Therefore, you may determine the percentage of pure gold in any gold piece by dividing the karat by 24. For example, the pure gold in 18K gold would be determined to be 75%: 18/24=0.750 or 75% pure gold. Here is a reference chart for some popular gold alloys:
karat |
parts gold
to alloy |
percent
pure gold |
millesimal
fineness |
10K |
10/24 |
41.67% |
417 |
14K |
14/24 |
58.33% |
583 |
18K |
18/24 |
75.00% |
750 |
24K |
24/24 |
99.99% |
999 |
Did you know that different countries have individual standards for gold? The legal requirements for minimum gold content vary widely from country to country. Nothing less than 10 karat gold can be legally marked or sold as gold jewelry in the USA. Britain allows 9 karat. In France, Italy and Switzerland, 18 karat is the lowest permissible standard to be called gold.
Did you know that gold alloys, aside from their strengthening properties, can also affect the color? Here is a reference chart identifying the metals used with gold in making some of the popular alloys:
| Color of gold |
Additive metals used |
Yellow gold |
Copper, silver |
White gold |
Nickel, zinc, copper |
Green gold |
Silver, zinc, copper |
Rose gold |
Copper, silver |
these different terms used in gold jewelry?
» Vermeil is gold plated sterling silver.
» Gold-plated items have a very thin layer of gold electroplated to the surface of the item. Gold-plated (GP, KGP, RGP) items have some other type of base metal underneath. Gold-plated items are always less expensive than their gold-filled counterparts.
» Gold-filled is a layer of 10 karat or better gold mechanically bonded under heat and pressure to one or more surfaces of supporting base metal (usually silver), then rolled or drawn to a given thickness. The amount of real gold used is why gold-filled items are always much more expensive than their gold-plated counterparts. See below for more about gold-filled. |
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Did you know that in the 5th century B.C., Aristotle pondered the question of the perfect medium for money? He concluded that gold is perfect money for 5 reasons:
» Durability: Gold won’t rot, break, crumble, decay, corrode or tarnish. Gold is unaffected by air, water, and even most acids.
» Convenience and Portability: A lifetime of wealth will fit in your pocket.
» Divisibility: Gold can easily be divided into smaller amounts. An ounce of gold can be split 100 or even 1000 times.
» Consistency: One ounce of pure gold is exactly the same as any other ounce, enabling worldwide trade and liquidity of gold – unlike unique items of jewelry or artwork.
» Demand: Gold has a staggering variety of uses, even more today than in Aristotle’s time. Its unique properties keep the demand high and the relative scarcity of the metal insures continued value.
Gold is still perfect money, perhaps more perfect money than money. Gold remains the time-honored standard of wealth that no other currency can match.
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Additional information and care for gold-filled jewelry
Gold-filled metal is made by bonding a thin layer of gold to a base metal (either sterling silver or brass) using high heat and pressure. The result is a metal that is less expensive than solid gold but much more durable than gold-plated. The gold-filled wire I use for my designer jewelry is 14/20 gold-filled (meaning 1/20th 14 karat). Here the 1/20 refers to the ratio of the 14 karat (plumb) gold layer to the base metal layer by weight, which is 5%.
What is the difference between gold-filled and gold-plated?
To gold plate a metal you place the metal into a special solution that contains gold. The metal is then electrically charged for an instant. The electrochemical reaction creates a microscopic thin layer of gold on the surface of the metal. This very thin layer can be worn off by rubbing or through contact with body oils. Over time the electric charge will wear off and the gold layer may flake off in large sections. In contrast, the gold-filled layer is about 100 times thicker than a plated surface. The high heat and pressure used to bond the gold creates a layer that does not rub off, wear off, or flake off easily.
How durable is gold-filled metal?
Gold-filled metal is very durable. Unlike gold-plated jewelry you can wear gold-filled jewelry every day.
Will gold-filled “tarnish”?
Yes. All metals can tarnish over time. Tarnish is a normal condition that is caused by oxidation, humidity and a reaction to the sulfur in the air interacting with the surface of the metal. Pure gold will not tarnish. It is the alloy in the gold-filled material that tarnishes. The tarnish can be removed in a number of ways. For instance: A soft cloth and/or a soft bristled tooth brush with mild soap and water should be enough to remove surface tarnish. For pieces that have a more progressed tarnishing, see the “storage and cleaning” section regarding sterling silver. |